3:23 PM
PanchPhoron meet over mango & other sweets @ Girish Chandra Dey & Nakur Chandra Nandy
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Are you a
Bengali? Are you someone who resides in Kolkata? Even if your answer to the
previous two questions is a no, yet you have a sweet tooth for bangali mishti
then surely you have heard of this sweet shop. Forget even that. If you are a
regular zomato user surely you know by now that this is the highest rated
outlet in the city which shares the honour with barbeque nation. Not only
Zomato, even TripAdvisor ranks this as the #1 place among 3723 places to eat in
Kolkata. So what does this simple sweet shop has to offer so as to receive such
a praise among the foodie community? To find out let's take a walk down the
history of this shop.
More than
a hundred years back Girish Chandra Dey of Simla (not to be confused with
Shimla) started selling sweetmeats from this small shop. He was already making
names in the industry when he was joined by Nakur Chandra Nandy from Janai,
Hooghly. Subsequently Nakur Nandy married Girish Dey's daughter. However more
than the marital relation, the father-in-law & son-in-law's joint business
venture became the talk of the town. Their firm specialised in karapak sandesh
(hard baked sandesh), however with time they have applied innovations &
experiments to their products & garnered more appreciations. Not only
Kolkata , their fame has spread across Bengal & even to the national level.
Their patrons include some of the most well known personalities of India, like Satyajit
Ray, Uttam Kumar, Rajib Gandhi. Not only a favourite among historical figures,
recently the shop supplied chocolate, parijat & mousumi sandesh for wedding
reception of Abhishek Bachhan & Aishwarya Tai. Kanchagolla & parijat
sandesh have been gifted to US Foreign Secretary, Mrs. Hillary Clinton. The
present prime minister of India, Mr. Modi is believed to be a fan of their
sandesh too.
Locating
the shop isn't tough. Locate Hedua Park, ask anybody, & they'll be more
than happy to direct you to the shop, popularly to referred as 'Nokur'. Don't
let the outside facade fool you. The shop may look old & shabby from
outside, but even then the fantastic array of varieties of sweetmeats on
display will surely impress you. The five generation family business is
presently owned & managed by Mr. Pratip & Pranab Nandy, latter of
the duo can be found at the shop throughout the day.
Although
specialising in karapak sandesh, the shop offers more than sixty items of
sandesh including their specialities like Talsash, jalbhara, parijat, dilkhush,
monohora & others. They boast of their product quality & rightly so as
none of their products remain unsold at the end of the day. All the items are
prepared afresh each day. The naram Pak sandesh has a shelf life of around a day
or two, karapak upto a week, however it is adviceable to consume them at the
earliest so that the intended flavour can be fully appreciated.
Recently
PanchPhoron was invited over to try out some of their special mango sweets. It
was a great opportunity to visit the shop, see the items in making, & have
them as fresh as one could ever have. We tried the following sweets, &
here's my short review of those:
Mango
Monohora:
Monohora
or monohora literally means 'one that steals the heart'. Such is the beauty of
this sweet that the name is apt. Traditionally from Janai, this must've been
brought to & popularised in Kolkata by Mr. Nakur Nandy. Now the original
Monohora is already famous by itself, the newest addition being the use of
mango to make it. Like the original, the mango variant too has a hard outer
shell made from extra sugar, a bit too sweet for me though. Inside that shell
hides the soft mango sandesh. Overall the induction of mango surely made things
better.
Mango
Amropali:
These are
square shaped mango flavoured sandesh. Two layers of sandesh with a layer of
shredded aamsatwo & bits of almonds sandwiched in between. As you bite into
the sandesh the outside softness & inner crunchy almonds present to you
unique texture, not to mention the mango flavour which just elevates the whole
experience to another level.
Mango
Mousumi:
This is
similar to the previous one, only a bit smaller in size , cashews replacing the
almonds, & mango pulp replacing the aamsatwo. This is undeniably a bit
softer than the previous one due to the presence of pulp. Tastewise there's
subtle difference, the woody flavour of almonds replaced by the cashews, but
overall the sweet is as good as the previous one, if not better.
Mango
Jolbhora:
The
common Jolbhora gets a makeover, with mango syrup replacing the usual
sugar/jaggery syrup. As mangoes are one of my weaknesses, this again impressed
me as soon as I took a bite. Additional fun was seeing the item being prepared
in front of our own eyes, right from putting the sandesh in the moulds, putting
the syrup & then sealing the hole.
Mango
Singara:
Not the
usual fried snack with mashed potato filling, not the masala filling, not even
the one with sujir filling. This one was mindblowingly made. A thin layer of
sandesh modelled after the usual pyramidal Singara shape, hiding a filling of
mango sandesh inside, & mango syrup lightly drizzled on top. Both the outer
layer & the inner were soft, sweetness optimum making it the best sweet I
tried that day.
Mango
Sandesh:
This was
regular sandesh prepared with mango syrup. Fresh & soft these too tasted
superb.
Daab
sandesh:
Sandesh
made with grated coconut pulp. However the selection of the coconut is given
importance. Not too tender, not too ripe, a medium aged coconut is procured for
this one so as to make this irresistible piece of sandesh all the more mouth
watering.
Chocolate
roll:
Looking a
bit like the chocolate roll you get to see in confectionery outlets. However in
place of chocolate flavoured breads, alternate thin layer of chocolate sandesh
& regular sandesh is used to wrap a inner core of, you guessed it right,
more of chocolate sandesh. This one was another item I really liked. The fusion
of chocolate & sandesh optimum, none overpowering the other. Surely will
revisit for this item.
Needless
to say, I really enjoyed this visit. It was evident from the taste of the
items, why they are considered the best sweet makers of Kolkata. If its
sandesh, 'Nokur' does it best. & Not only the original variant, they make
the fusion sandesh as good as their unadulterated ones. For the syrup they use
Alphonso mango syrup procured from Gujarat itself. Other ingredients are
sourced locally & then goes through various age old techniques to finally
produce the awesome sweets that people of Kolkata practically swear by. The
methods may seem primitive, nothing is automated, rather relying on the skills
of the craftsmen. Maybe that's the secret behind the great taste (or maybe they
add some secret ingredients :D) . In any case the shop continues to uphold
their name & fame, & keep doing so for generations to come. It was a
privilege to be invited for this event & see the sweets in the making. Will
surely go back for more.
Until
then
Happy
Eating
Cheers!